Specimen Trees  •  Instant Screening  •  Large Tree Planting  •  Trees Bought and Sold
Backhoe, Bobcat, Light Excavation  •  Large Tree Transplanting

How the Process Works

Here is an overview of how our TREES NOW process works:

It is important that the tree is in good condition and healthy before considering a transplant. Several days and sometimes weeks prior to moving, we ensure that the tree receives a thorough watering. Often we use a product called BIOMIX to help retain fluids in the tree during the transplanting process and ensure a higher success rate. Just prior to the move, we arrive on site and tie the tree branches up with twine to prevent breakage during the move. We often discuss the front or “face” of the tree, mark it with a ribbon, so it will put its’ best face forward in the new location. The tree is now ready to be moved……….but we need to ready the new site first!

Preparation; prior to any Digging Underground utilities (power, gas, water, etc.) can prove to be quite dangerous and expensive! Several days prior to our arrival you will need to call DIG SAFE and have them mark where their utility lines, if any, are run We will not move any trees and/or shrubs without the area properly marked. In MASS and Rhode Island, you can call 1-888-DIGSAFE… or go on www.digsafe.com. These are FREE services.

We now create a hole in the new location where the tree will be moved to. We do this very precisely with the tree spade. In this way the “ball” that comes with the tree is the exact same shape as the new hole we are transplanting it into. This reduces the chance of air pockets that can halt/ stop future root re-growth and adds significantly to the success rate. The bottom of the hole is filled with water and loam slurry (compost and/or shredded loam, bone meal, fertilizer and water). 

The appropriate size of tree spade must be selected to be successful. Big trees need big spades. A bigger spade means greater chance of success. TREES NOW has a 98% success rate with our tree moves. The industry standard is 12 inches of spade for every inch of tree (measuring about 4 feet from the ground). Our 90” “BIG JOHN” tree spade creates a root ball that is 7.5' wide and 4.5' deep -- this is a substantial amount of roots and soil. That is important because the more existing “native” soil we can transplant with the tree, the easier it is for the tree to become acclimated to its new location. With the tree spade, there is no labor of hand digging and placing burlap on the root ball. Another benefit of using the spade is that the tree spends the least amount of time out of the ground as possible. This reduces the risk of transplant shock, which means a healthier and more beautiful tree. Now we have the tree safely in the spade.

We drive the tree spade to the new location and locate it in the exact spot and orientation to the new site. The Spade and the ribbon on the face is line up. The tree is placed in the hole and the slurry fills up any air gaps around the root ball. With very large trees we excavate 15 - 20 inches deep around the outer edge of the root ball. New gardening soil is then put in. This gives the roots a fertile place to grow into. After the tree and/or shrub have been transplanted, we simply tamp the soil around the plant to ensure that the root ball has a solid footing and to remove any air pockets. A 4-6 inch berm is formed around the outer edge of the new excavated area. This new area is entirely mulched (4 inches). This is done to create a collection trough for watering and fertilization. Water the tree and/or shrub immediately. We then stake the tree at the appropriate height and circumference to protect it from the wind, hold it upright and firm so new roots can form. We do this with protective hose, braided wire and stakes. After we stake the trees, it is recommended that any broken branches are pruned.

Finally water, water, water! We’ll provide counsel here.

Care and Maintenance of your transplant:

Tree Maintenance: 
Once TREES NOW has relocated the tree(s), maintenance needs to be done either by you, an experienced landscaper or TREES NOW. We have a variety of services that are available ensure the tree lives and flourishes. Services available to our customers include watering, fertilizing, periodic inspection, stake removal and final shaping. Other services may be available to residential customers depending on the job.

Watering:
Proper watering can is the key to survival of newly planted trees. We CANNOT stress this enough!! 

Water immediately after planting with a slow stream until the berm around the tree remains full. Soak the entire root ball so water reaches the deepest roots. Water three times a week for two weeks. Then water once every week to ten days (depending on weather). Never water leaf foliage in the full sunlight since sunburn damage could occur. Spray leaves only after sunset as this will reduce transplant shock. 

During spring, summer and fall: If rainfall is not sufficient (generally 1 inch/week) the tree should be watered every five to seven days. Reduce watering after September 15 to once every 2 weeks and give a thorough soaking before freeze up to reduce winter damage. 

In winter: If we experience a dry month, evergreens should be watered on a mild day. Remember, excess water accumulation in the planting hole is a leading cause of transplant death. Watering must be appropriate for soil type and drainage, not too dry…not too wet.

After the first year, continued watering will help your tree to recover and grow quicker. This is especially important during hot dry spells. Rain fall is rarely enough water from May thru October. During these times continue to water your tree thoroughly once a week. 

Stakes:
Stakes should be left in tact for approx. one year. Guy wires should be slack to force the tree's roots to grow and eventually support it, but not slack enough to allow it to fall or lean. The staking system should be checked periodically to ensure it is not injuring the tree. Stakes should be removed after one or more growing seasons depending on the size of the tree and the soil conditions. If support systems are left in place too long, the tree's ability to stand alone may be reduced and the chances of girdling injury are increased. 

Fertilizing:
Wait to fertilize. Since the root system of a newly planted tree is limited, fertilization is often not recommended at the time of planting. Excessive fertilizer salts in the root zone can be damaging. If fertilizer is used at planting or in the first growing season, application of a controlled-release fertilizer is suggested. Fertilization in the fall when the roots are active can be beneficial. The area around the tree should be kept mulched with three to four inches of organic mulch. The mulch will help reduce competition from weeds and grasses, conserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperature extremes. The mulch should not be placed against the stem of the tree as that can cause bark suffocation or crown rot. Black plastic should not be placed under the mulch since it restricts water movement and oxygen availability to the roots. 

Before the next growing season use a 10-52-10 as per instructions. RX-30 is recommended for evergreens and RX-15 for leaf trees next season. Follow dosage and application instructions on the label. 

Fertilize trees on May 1 and July 1. Do not use "Weed n' Feed on areas near trees. Never place manure, lawn fertilizer, plastic mulch, or landscape fabric over the root ball. Do not mound soil over roots. 

Pruning:
Pruning following planting should be limited. The tree will grow and establish most rapidly if pruning is minimized at planting. As said earlier, broken or damaged limbs should be removed immediately and we generally do this. Do not use tree wrap. Many early references recommend wrapping the trunks of newly planted trees to protect against temperature extremes, sun-scald, boring insects and drying. More recent research indicates that temperature differentials at the bark are greater with tree wrap than without. Further, tree wrap tends to hold in moisture on the bark and can lead to fungal problems. Also, insects tend to burrow between the bark and the wrap, and can be worse with wrap than without it. 

Seasonality:
Although we will assist you in moving your trees and shrubs Early Spring, Summer, Fall, and even Early Winter, the best time to move your plants is during the Spring or Fall. During the Summer, conditions can be too dry and too hot which can stress your trees and/or shrubs. Air and ground temperatures can be problematic much past Mid December.

Insect Control:
Inspect your trees regularly for insect and pest damage. Be especially alert when your trees are putting out soft new growth which is very susceptible. Moved trees are weaker and preventative spraying with a systemic pesticide such as Cygon or Lagon is recommended. Follow all product label instructions. Spray with systemic pesticides on May 1, July 1 and August 15 (approximately).